The Ware for June 2012 is shown below.
Thanks to Yi-Fang for sharing this with me!
This entry was posted on Saturday, June 23rd, 2012 at 12:34 pm and is filed under Hacking. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed.
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Looks like the control board from a GE refridgerator. I’m not sure exactly which one, but WR55X10656 is similar.
Actually, WR55X10384 has a closer layout, but it has the relay that is missing in the above picture populated.
http://midwestapplianceparts.com/rebuilt-appliance-parts-1950/general-electric-rebuilt-parts-1952/ge-refrigerator-control-board-wr55x10384-r-cs-8791.html
Looking at this blog, I think it’s an earlier revision of
WR55X10942.
http://blog.partsdr.com/how-to-install-ge-wr55x10942-main-control-board/
(2nd image, the old board has the unpopulated relay)
Actually upon closer inspection of the images, the old board and the one Bunnie posted is a EBX1005G01. WR55X10942 was the replacement part.
Name that Ware never ceases to amaze me with peoples knowledge! I had absolutely no idea what it was – I would have been happy with “its a fridge controller” but then this converstaion carries on with its a GE fridge and then debating the exact model….! you guys are crazy… and I love it! this is what keeps bringing me back to Name that Ware, learning something new every comment!
kudos!
It looks to me like a Fridge controller.
i.e. connectors for compressor, icemaker, etc.
I had to repair mine (bad caps) about a year ago, looked a lot like this.
But what do I know, I’m a *software* guy.
:)
Yeah, mine is a GE Profile fridge.
Beat me under the wire (assuming we’re right)!
I was going to guess some sort of lighting controller, but it looks like the fridge people are pretty confident.
Never took apart a fridge. Would have expected fewer connectors and less software and computing than this (32KB ROM, http://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/192/HD64F3644.php)
I’m thoroughly amazed, never had thought about that much electronics being put in a refridgerator.
My current one (which is only a few years old) has a mechanical temperature switch… and that’s about it. But of course it lacks the ability to dispense precisely measured amounts of cold water, automatically generate ice-cubes and the ability to communicate with alien species ;-)
[ I assume that those are the ones where the PCB normally lives in:
http://www.geappliances.com/appliances/refrigerators.htm ]
This fridge has 2 “panels”, one temperature panel inside the door (current fridge and freezer temperatures, plus buttons to set them, one main panel for Water / Ice / Quick Ice / etc., plus solenoids to control the door water and water for ice, so there are a lot of connections.
The problem I had (bad capacitors) is pretty common on this board, from what I’ve seen. Putting them right by the heat sink for a voltage regulator might not have been the best plan.
:|
My first giess was “an appliance, might me a washing machine”. The, I thought: a washer would not require such a big SMPS. But which appliance would?
Then again, there is a 20 amp relay, so the appliance will have a heater fo some kind.
I’ll stick to ‘washer’ – a dryer probably does not need 5 relays.
Oh no it is a fridge indeed… there is a “DEFR” label close to the 20 amp relay, so that will be the defrost heater. The big SMPS is probably for some LCD function or LED lighting.
@Thomas Looks as if the SMPS is an input from line voltage. The leftmost coil is for EMI/ filtering, then full bridge rectifier and opto isolators. Note also the MOV and fuse. Looks like the large relay is for switching AC on and off. Maybe 12V is fed in on the upper right connector?
What sticks out to me – always looking for inconsistant things – are the large through hole zero ohm resistor R7 and the DIP part U12 (another relay?).
Heh, had to repair mine too (underrated resistor had burned, and cold solder joints on the big relay). Not gonna buy another $90 CPU board for that! I kind of miss my old fridge, it ran 35 years with no maintenance other than a new door gasket and cleaning the coils occasionally. It still worked when I gave it away. All that electronics doesn’t make the current one more reliable. Remember, less complex = more reliable.